About 40km to the East of Khovd city is Khar Us Lake (Black Water Lake), the second largest freshwater lake (15,800 sq km) in Mongolia – but with an average depth of only 4m. Khovd river flows into this lake, creating a giant marsh delta. Khar Us lake is the perfect habitat for wild ducks, geese, wood grouse, partridges and seagulls, including the rare relict gull and herring gull – and by late summer, a billion or two of everyone’s friend, the common mosquito. Be prepared for the blighters, otherwise your life will be a misery. The best time to see the birdlife is in May and late August.

As at Uvs Lake, birdwatchers may be a little disappointed: the lake is huge, difficult to reach because of the marshes, and locals know very little, if anything, about the birdlife. The best idea would be to go with one of the national park workers and to head for the delta where the Khovd River enters the lake.